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Spain

They Swam to Europe but Are Still Stuck on North African Shores

The Ones Who Remain

In the wake of the largest mass crossing in Ceuta's history, thousands of migrants are spending their days searching for food and dodging police, while the Spanish enclave has become the latest battleground in Europe's political debate over migration and identity.

The Living Fragments of Al-Andalus

Fragments of Al-Andalus

A growing movement in Spain’s Andalusia argues that everyday gestures and half-remembered prayers are the unwritten remnants of Muslim Iberia, and an answer to the far right’s narratives about national identity.

Walking the Camino to Santiago de Compostela

Walking the Camino to Santiago de Compostela

I wanted to understand what pilgrims’ journeys meant to them, and why shrines and their relics, which should be anathema in modern times, continue to draw huge numbers of people. So my partner Sue and I joined the throngs seeking answers on the Camino to Santiago de Compostela.

A Century Ago, a Showdown Changed but Didn’t End North Africa Colonialism

A Century Ago, a Showdown Changed but Didn’t End North Africa Colonialism

The Battle of Annual was among the greatest defeats for a colonial army in Africa. It made Abd el-Krim an anti-imperial icon; his guerrilla tactics were cited by Mao Zedong and Ho Chi Minh. In 1925, he would be Time magazine’s person of the year.