The Rock at the End of the British Empire

Gibraltar, the Last of England

Gibraltar’s history over the past century is not simply a hymn to eternal Britishness. It is the story of Gibraltarians dealing with the end of empire, and forging their own path alongside, but separate, from the U.K.

The Odd Couple: Franco’s Alliance With Muslims

Franco’s Alliance With Muslims

There was a time when the Spanish far right needed Ceuta’s Muslims and plied them with gifts. One of these, the Muley el-Mehdi mosque on the Avenida de África, was built in the middle of the Spanish Civil War.