food

Ashure: A Sometimes Rich Pudding With an Always Rich History

Ashure: A Sometimes Rich Pudding With an Always Rich History

As a kid who grew up in a mixed Alevi and Sunni neighborhood in Malatya, I listened to all the stories related to the meaning of the ashure pudding. Before then, I just assumed that the pudding was an Alevi-specific dessert.

Istanbul’s Most Beguiling Cocktail

Istanbul’s Most Beguiling Cocktail

Among all the foods in Istanbul’s giant foodscape, perhaps the one with the most complicated and long history and provenance is boza.

How the Eggplant Conquered Arab Cuisine

How the Eggplant Conquered Arab Cuisine

Today, it is hard to fathom any cuisine we consume in America without eggplants (from Indian and Chinese to Italian and Arab). But eggplant was not always popular, until Italian and Arab immigrants brought it, along with chickpeas and peppers.

Reem Kassis
Recipes for Disaster

Recipes for Disaster

Food nationalism started with the formation of nation states and the breakup of empires in recent centuries. Cuisine, like political borders, became an effective tool for marking new distinctions, used by chauvinists and genocidaires as a weapon.

Riada Asimovic Akyol
Syria’s Famished Victory

Syria’s Famished Victory

Food, especially in a country so famous for its cuisine, is not just about nutrition; it is also about culture. What do you do when you can’t afford the food? You stop inviting people, apart from the ones you don’t feel embarrassed in front of when you can only serve coffee.

Lydia Wilson