Croatia
Skin-Deep History
Generations of Catholic women in Bosnia sported intricate tattoos on their hands, chests and even faces. But the apocryphal tales that they were designed to keep Christian maidens safe from Ottoman advances miss the rich history of girlhood, creativity and community that are actually at their heart.
Where I Go, Yugo
In 1978, the author’s father cycled through the Balkans. A trip following in his tire tracks reveals a continent grappling with globalization, uniform commercialism and rising nationalism.