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Spain

Walking the Camino to Santiago de Compostela

Footsteps of the Faithful

I wanted to understand what pilgrims’ journeys meant to them, and why shrines and their relics, which should be anathema in modern times, continue to draw huge numbers of people. So my partner Sue and I joined the throngs seeking answers on the Camino to Santiago de Compostela.

The Rock at the End of the British Empire

Gibraltar, the Last of England

Gibraltar’s history over the past century is not simply a hymn to eternal Britishness. It is the story of Gibraltarians dealing with the end of empire, and forging their own path alongside, but separate, from the U.K.

The Odd Couple: Franco’s Alliance With Muslims

The Odd Couple: Franco’s Alliance With Muslims

There was a time when the Spanish far right needed Ceuta’s Muslims and plied them with gifts. One of these, the Muley el-Mehdi mosque on the Avenida de África, was built in the middle of the Spanish Civil War.